Rolex Submariner - 1680 - 1972 - Red Sub - Unpolished
Watch Info
Manufacturer: Rolex
Model: Submariner Date "Red Sub"
Condition: Excellent Vintage (Unpolished Case)
Reference: 1680
Year: 1972 (Serial 3.18M)
Box: No
Papers: No (Includes 2023 Service Records)
Accessories: Watch Only. Includes a period-correct Rolex Oyster 9315 "Folded Link" bracelet.
Notes: The "Red Submariner" is one of the most storied references in Rolex history. Produced between roughly 1969 and 1975, it was the first Submariner to feature a date window. This specific example falls into the 3.18M serial range, which typically identifies it as a Mark IV (MK4) dial—notable for being the first "Feet First" version and featuring distinctive white printing underneath the red "Submariner" text.
Condition Assessment
Overall Condition: Pre-Owned - Excellent Vintage. The standout feature of this 1680 is the unpolished case. The lugs remain incredibly thick with the original factory chamfers (bevels) still visible, a rarity for a 50-year-old tool watch.
Dial, Hands, & Crystal: The dial is an original tritium "Red" dial. Under 10x magnification, there is very minor chipping near the 6:00 edge where the dial meets the case—a common occurrence in vintage Rolexes caused by movement during past services. It is virtually invisible to the naked eye. The crystal was replaced at the end of 2023 with a period-correct "Top Hat" acrylic crystal and remains flawless.
Case & Bezel: The 40mm stainless steel case is in fantastic, honest condition. The bezel insert is a "Fat Font" era-correct piece, though it features an aftermarket tritium-look pip (pearl). The case was pressure tested and fitted with new gaskets during its late 2023 service.
Strap/Bracelet & Clasp: This watch is paired with a Rolex 9315 folded-link Oyster bracelet. While not original to this specific head from the factory, it is a period-correct 1970s bracelet that matches the watch's aesthetic perfectly. It shows typical vintage "stretch" but remains fully functional and secure.
Technical Specifications
Reference: 1680
Case Size: 40mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel (Unpolished)
Dial: Matte Black MK4 "Red Submariner" (Feet First)
Movement: Calibre 1575 (Automatic, Date)
Power Reserve: Approximately 42 Hours
Water Resistance: Originally 200m (Tested to 5 bar in 2023)
Notable Details: "Red" model name, open 6s and 9s on the silver date wheel, and high-profile acrylic crystal.
Why the 1680 Red Submariner is a Grail Piece
The Red Submariner is the "must-have" for any serious vintage Rolex collector. While the standard 1680 with white text is a classic, that single line of red ink transforms the watch into a historic trophy. This specific MK4 variant is highly prized because it represents the transition of the Submariner into the modern "Feet First" era while retaining the soul of the 1970s.
The value of this particular piece lies in the unpolished case. In the vintage world, "Condition is King," and a case that has never seen a polishing wheel is significantly more valuable than a "mint" looking case that has been thinned down. Having been fully serviced at the end of 2023, the Calibre 1575 is running within COSC-style tolerances, making this a rare "investment-grade" vintage piece that is also reliable enough for daily wear.
Why Buy from Road & Wrist
We guarantee authenticity on every watch we sell, using detailed photographs to ensure when you receive your watch, there are no surprises!
Authentication Guaranteed: Every watch undergoes rigorous verification—serial number cross-check, movement analysis, and full condition report.
Transparent Condition Reporting: We document every detail—from the unpolished lug thickness to the minor dial chipping—so you know exactly what you're purchasing.
Secure Shipping: Your watch ships via fully insured, tracked service (e.g., FedEx Overnight) with signature required.
Post-Sale Support: We are available for servicing and maintenance, and are also happy to make suggestions for accessories.
Watch Info
Manufacturer: Rolex
Model: Submariner Date "Red Sub"
Condition: Excellent Vintage (Unpolished Case)
Reference: 1680
Year: 1972 (Serial 3.18M)
Box: No
Papers: No (Includes 2023 Service Records)
Accessories: Watch Only. Includes a period-correct Rolex Oyster 9315 "Folded Link" bracelet.
Notes: The "Red Submariner" is one of the most storied references in Rolex history. Produced between roughly 1969 and 1975, it was the first Submariner to feature a date window. This specific example falls into the 3.18M serial range, which typically identifies it as a Mark IV (MK4) dial—notable for being the first "Feet First" version and featuring distinctive white printing underneath the red "Submariner" text.
Condition Assessment
Overall Condition: Pre-Owned - Excellent Vintage. The standout feature of this 1680 is the unpolished case. The lugs remain incredibly thick with the original factory chamfers (bevels) still visible, a rarity for a 50-year-old tool watch.
Dial, Hands, & Crystal: The dial is an original tritium "Red" dial. Under 10x magnification, there is very minor chipping near the 6:00 edge where the dial meets the case—a common occurrence in vintage Rolexes caused by movement during past services. It is virtually invisible to the naked eye. The crystal was replaced at the end of 2023 with a period-correct "Top Hat" acrylic crystal and remains flawless.
Case & Bezel: The 40mm stainless steel case is in fantastic, honest condition. The bezel insert is a "Fat Font" era-correct piece, though it features an aftermarket tritium-look pip (pearl). The case was pressure tested and fitted with new gaskets during its late 2023 service.
Strap/Bracelet & Clasp: This watch is paired with a Rolex 9315 folded-link Oyster bracelet. While not original to this specific head from the factory, it is a period-correct 1970s bracelet that matches the watch's aesthetic perfectly. It shows typical vintage "stretch" but remains fully functional and secure.
Technical Specifications
Reference: 1680
Case Size: 40mm
Case Material: Stainless Steel (Unpolished)
Dial: Matte Black MK4 "Red Submariner" (Feet First)
Movement: Calibre 1575 (Automatic, Date)
Power Reserve: Approximately 42 Hours
Water Resistance: Originally 200m (Tested to 5 bar in 2023)
Notable Details: "Red" model name, open 6s and 9s on the silver date wheel, and high-profile acrylic crystal.
Why the 1680 Red Submariner is a Grail Piece
The Red Submariner is the "must-have" for any serious vintage Rolex collector. While the standard 1680 with white text is a classic, that single line of red ink transforms the watch into a historic trophy. This specific MK4 variant is highly prized because it represents the transition of the Submariner into the modern "Feet First" era while retaining the soul of the 1970s.
The value of this particular piece lies in the unpolished case. In the vintage world, "Condition is King," and a case that has never seen a polishing wheel is significantly more valuable than a "mint" looking case that has been thinned down. Having been fully serviced at the end of 2023, the Calibre 1575 is running within COSC-style tolerances, making this a rare "investment-grade" vintage piece that is also reliable enough for daily wear.
Why Buy from Road & Wrist
We guarantee authenticity on every watch we sell, using detailed photographs to ensure when you receive your watch, there are no surprises!
Authentication Guaranteed: Every watch undergoes rigorous verification—serial number cross-check, movement analysis, and full condition report.
Transparent Condition Reporting: We document every detail—from the unpolished lug thickness to the minor dial chipping—so you know exactly what you're purchasing.
Secure Shipping: Your watch ships via fully insured, tracked service (e.g., FedEx Overnight) with signature required.
Post-Sale Support: We are available for servicing and maintenance, and are also happy to make suggestions for accessories.